We left Fez in filthy weather but the van was intact! Our route south was blocked because of flooding so we took the scenic route! Arrived in Merzouga in blazing sunshine and arranged a three day camel trek we saw the most extraordinary mirage but sadly didn’t get a photo.
Our trek route ( just the two of us and a guide) took us along a well worn path littered with plastic bottles before we cut off into the dunes themselves spectacular silence except for the swish of the camels feet and not a plastic bag or bottle in sight after about 3 hours we came to a gap in the dunes and crossed an ancient river bed heading towards a mud hut and a traditional Berber tent on the plain….our stop for the night!




one night in a mud hut with nomad goat herders and one in a tent at an Oasis} Sore bums at the end of it and badly in need of a shower but a great experience….even if Rory was not quite as nimble at the end of the adventure as Lucy who definitely qualified in camel management !
We even saw some crazy Germans skiing on Erg Chebbi

where we saw the most spectacular sunset after an epic climb up the dunes.



At the end of our trek we stopped at a spectacular wasis (oasis) at the foot of Erg Chebbi modern ingenuity an upturned plastic bucket over the well shaft protected the water source.


We sat round a spectacular fire and had a lovely meal under the stars (well goat stew..but it was terrific)

The valleys around around Fez produce millions of olives…in Roman times there were 26 Mills in the town of Volubilis alone!

The area is full of mud brick palaces and forts and the Dades Valley and the Gorges spectacular

I persuaded Lucy to try a hammam at Riad Laaroussa. The hammam is beautifully restored, lit by candles and with rose petals spread over the massage tables and floor. The steam room where we lay and relaxed on the marble slabs is totally silent and you soon find yourself drifting away. …. a thorough rub down with a loofa ( Lucy swears it was wire wool!) and some traditional eucalyptus black soap sees your body glowing….followed by a dreamy massage…….mmmmm

Wonderful drive through Northern Morocco endlessly variable countryside. One minute desert, then farmland and then miles of plastic greenhouses forcing winter luxuries for the European market…. We spent a couple of days on the coast visiting Moulay Bousselham bird sanctuary and then headed inland to Volubilis where we were escorted by Khalid a spectacular local guide

we went back to his home and had a delightful evening with his wife and young family

Volubilis is an amazing Roman city half excavated ( another 20 hectares to go) and then on to Fez and a couple of nights of luxury in Fez which is a wonderful town we parked the van in the car park for 3 days without a hitch, tried all sorts of local food did Arabic lessons and got completely lost in the Medina, local children take great delight in sending you the wrong way if you ask or telling you there is no way through…..all the streets look so similar its smell that helps!


We stayed at a fantastic small Riad hidden down a filthy passage way in the center of the Medina. You pass through a non descript doorway into a beautiful courtyard full of Orange trees to Riad Laaroussaa perfect escape from the hustle and bustle

The entrance is on the left!

Courtyard

After a wonderful “shakedown” drive through Europe we crossed to Morocco on the 22nd of November 2010. As we got close to the port the vehicles got more and more overloaded…..hey cost is calculated by the wheel base!

The first realisation that we were in Africa was in the queue for customs and immigration… “do you want to be searched?” said an official. “No not really” I replied….€ 10 said he. We paid and before we knew it documents were stamped and we were on our way. We spent our first night on the coast near Tangier before heading off towards Moulay Bousselham and the amazing bird life.

We have been tempted by the offer of a a couple of days with friends in the South West of France so we are taking a detour back North to the edge of the Pyrenees for blazing log fires and French Red wine. Lovely not to be on a strict timetable!

Simon and Pippa

We have been lucky enough to borrow a flat from friends in Sitges south of Barcelona the weather is beautiful and we are enjoying our first proper stop. Feel we have rather overdone castles and cathedrals but have enjoyed the Spanish countryside and the wine and food although we both suspect that outside the main cities all the locals in Northern and Central Spain hibernate….we literally didn’t see anyone for hours at a time and finding a supermarket or shop open at anytime of the day was a real challenge! I do however have an incite on where the euro millions go. Building roads and bridges in Spain!

James and Charlotte lend us their flat in Sitges

Lucy all relaxed after time on the road!

We had a wonderful crossing to Santander and then drove along the North Coast of Spain to Santiago de Compostella.  Beautiful weather and a perfect start spending the nights off road in (very!)hidden bays, although we decided that no one lives or works in this part of Spain at this time of year everything was cerrado ( closed) in fact todo cerrado …which I think means all closed! One or two minor problems with water and the shower but a new “T” seems to have solved it and the shower works  a treat.

Santiago was brilliant although parking in the center of town on what turned out to be the day of the half marathon was a challenge. We are now spending a couple of days in Salamanca which is stunning the Roommate Hotel promised us parking until we arrived and they saw the van ..but a smile worked wonders and a taxi was persuaded to move and we are right outside the hotel.

Thanks to Dave and Darren for a very informative few hours on the Somerset levels. Very Happy with my hydraulic Red Winch!

www.redstart-design.com

www.red-winches.com

Practiced again on the River bank at home Lucy a star on the winding….

Last couple of days at Marston Mill ferry booked to Santander but first a bit of a Road Trip in UK